JoJo engaged, Arequipa and Colca Canyon

It is not possible to see everything in a country; unless of course you have unlimited time and money. If you are driving a motorbike there are a number of other considerations: 1) Your backside; 2) the road conditions; 3) the weather. By luck rather than design our trip has been perfectly timed, we have kept just ahead of the weather by avoiding the rainy seasons, the on-setting winter season and the heat of the summer season,  as well as the people seasons. It was our attention to keep going north along the west bank of Lake Titicaca to Cusco, but my wife’s avid reading changed all that. Her suggestion was that we should head west to Arequipa then North East along a road that doesn’t exist to Cusco, taking in Colca Canyon along the way! As always I listen to Ewa. We headed West for 323 kms to Arequipa and I am very pleased we did.

Arequipa or The White City as it is called because of its buildings made of Sillar, a volcanic stone that shines in the bright sunlight, takes you by surprise. From Puna the road rises from 3808 meters to around 4800 meters from where it drops down to Arequipa at 2358 meters where the city sits comfortably at the base of three Volcanoes, Misti,  Chachani and Pichu Pichu all three of which have snow-capped peaks throughout the year. The road is not straight; it twists and turns at every opportunity. The surrounding outlying areas of Peru’s second largest city are uninspiring, we enter via Ciudad Del Dios (City of God) where I noted that even God doesn’t finish his buildings, it’s a mess with traffic and trucks coming at you from every direction. We head for the city centre where we are suddenly surrounded by some of the most beautiful architecture you can imagine. It is small wonder that the centre of Arequipa has been proclaimed a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

Bridge into Arequipa

Plaza at night

We found a Hostel called Home Sweet Home, in the middle of town. Parking for the bike was not available. Bolstered by my ability to drive the bike right through the dining room of the Hostel in Puna, I suggested to the receptionist that I could make it through the front door and a bike of such quality parked in their entrance hall could only increase their occupancy. She agreed!

We had an even bigger surprise when we went online to catch up on our emails. The first email was from JoJo to say that Richard (Christer) had been trying to phone me for the past week to ask me for my daughters hand in marriage! As someone said “You have had the rest of her, so why stop at the hand!” Ewa and I are absolutely thrilled and immediately phoned them and shed tears of happiness throughout the entire call. I have absolutely no doubt that they are extremely well suited for each other. Great news and certainly good reason to walk into the city centre of Arequipa seeking a vendor of fine champagne!

Talking to Richard

Champagne and Artichoke

We were really happy, and to be surrounded by such beautiful buildings was the cherry on the top. Arequipa is the sort of city that reveals its self-more and more over time. We walked ourselves silly and kept on coming across hidden jewels of architecture, galleries and shops. After so many months of somewhat basic living, it was a real pleasure to have a touch of sophistication. We drank our champagne on our rooftop lounge overlooking the lights of the city and watched over by the three snow-capped guardians of Arequipa. Driving West was a good decision.

I wonder how many people have heard of Colca Canyon? Colca Canyon is the second deepest Canyon in the world with a depth of 1700. No it is not second to the Grand Canyon, it is second to Corahuasi Canyon which is only 168m deeper and is situated in the next valley to Colca Canyon, and is not on any tour schedule as is accessed by only one small gravel road, where Colca is accessed by three gravel roads and the occasional bit of asphalt!

We left the warm sunshine of Arequipa by retracing our steps back up the twist and turns to 4800m where cloudy weather turned to snow and we nearly froze!

Going Down

LLama's

Taxi

Chivay

There is good reason why those volcanoes have snow on them. A quick unpack saw us don fancy warm underwear, under-coats over-coats and everything in-between-coats to keep us warm before descending down through hairpin bends to Chivay where by the time we arrived I thought I was in a sauna I was sweating so much.

Chivay is a delightful town at the head of the Colca Canyon; it is the starting point from where the Colca River irrigates ancient Inca Terraces that climb up the gentle sides of the canyon until the gentleness gives way to near vertical walls that disappear into the river 1.7 kms below you. 56 kms downstream from Chivay it is village called Cabanaconde from where it is possible to walk for two and a half hours down a tortuous path to the “Oasis” on the floor of the Canyon.

Tunnel to where?

Inka Terraces

The road to Cabanaconde is scenic beyond my dreams and passes through picturesque villages which all have impressive churches with large domed roofs. Some of the villages can be seen way up on the opposite side of the canyon in seemingly inaccessible places. The thin thread of a donkey track can be seen zigzagging down the mountainside providing an umbilical cord to the world below.

Village Church

Looking 1.7 km down

Colca Canyon

No mass tourism or rush hour here. There are tours but the level of luxury is not high. Transport by large tourist busses are few and far between, 12 seater taxis are the order of the day or donkey if you choose not to walk.

Yamil, the owner of Hostal Valle Del Fuego in Cabanaconde could not have been more helpful. You would imagine that the path down the second deepest canyon in the world would be sign posted. When we enquired where we could find the path Yamil said “You are on it just carry on down the track past the mud hut and keep going”. Tranquillo.

Room with a view

Hostal Valle Del Fuego

Ewa on email

Cabanaconde Church

Inside village church

Two and a half hours down, a swim in the river, a few sketches, then two and a half hours up.

The path down

Keep walking

Donkey's on the way up

Oasis

Very cofotable

Oasis

Rooms to rent

It was a strenuous walk which your calf muscles reminded me about the following morning every time I changed gear or touched the brakes on the return journey to Chevay. It was a Sunday and Mother's Day. All the mothers put on their fines outfits and provided a wonderful display of colour and festivity in all the villages we passed through.

Tired Mother

Mother's Day