What's the time?

Where we are!

Not many Blondes in South America, maybe we are the ones who are being a bit “blonde” We are not sure of the time! The clock was meant to go an hour back on the 7th of March, but we have not changed any of our time keeping devices and we still seem to be in sinc with the rest of Chile. We had a hilarious conversation the other day discussing this time changing dilemma with an Irish male and Chilean female couple we met at Hostel Andes in Santiago. Barbara the unblonde Chilean Lady said that the clocks had not gone back because they have not had any rain! Patrick Murphy (his real name) just about collapsed with laughter. We were then told that the clocks would go back on the 2^nd of April and were well prepared for this event by not feeling guilty lying in bed for an extra hour. When we questioned the owner of the camp-site as to the correct time, he said that the clocks went back on 10^th March! The only time when the truth will have any significance to our life is when we arrive at the airport on 26^th May to catch the plane home.

Babbling Brook

Peace

Right now we are sitting under willow trees next to a babbling brook with clear blue sky during the day and a canopy of stars at night which you feel you can almost touch. We are apparently sitting at the centre of the Earth’s geomagnetic energy. I am not sure which particular energy, but it would appear to have an impact on your legs. There are people who sit cross legged by the babbling brook chanting a very monotonous OM sound. That could be one of the effects this energy,  other reason could be that Pisco Elqui also happens to be the central distillery for a much drunk Chilean liquor Pisco Sour! Whatever the truth may be, Pisco Elqui is the centre of an amazing valley pretty far off the beaten track to the East of the coastal town of La Serena in the Northern region of Chile.

Legs Crossed going OM........

Cross legged no OM...

After a really pleasant break in Valparaiso we once again packed up the bike and headed North along the coast. The immediate coastline would appear to be pretty industrial which surprised us. There are oil refineries, paper mills and what looked like a nuclear power station. I hope it has been built to a higher spec. than the one in Japan.   Once you leave behind the main cities there is a dramatic fall off in the population. There are 16 million people living in Chile of which a third live in Santiago and its surrounding suburbs and 85% of the people live in the cities.

Painting of Zapallar

Zapallar

The coastline is dramatic, the cold Humbolt current brings in a rolling mist in the evening and the temperature drops from a pretty warm 28 to 30 degree day time temperature, to fairly chilly evenings where we were happy with the warmth of our bike clothing. We stopped off at the very upmarket seaside town of Zapallar. It really is a delightful spot and is within easy reach of Santiago. Some of the homes that nestle in the trees around the bay were spectacular and the prices on the menu at the fish restaurant on the rocks by the sea, would have certainly put a little pressure on our budget.

The Pan American Highway runs the length of Chile, it is certainly a wonderful way to cover distance,  but as this is not our priority we try to use other roads where we can. So it was that we headed inland after Los Vilos towards Illapel Combarbala and Ovalle.

Where to now?

You immediately start winding through the really barren mountains and valleys. It is spectacular scenery, the really imposing mountains are all around. Occasionally you pass a little settlement that leaves you wondering why it is there. You then top out over a pass and are completely surprised by the scene below you. Acres of vineyards either side of a river with tentacles that climb to even higher ground on either side of the valley. The greens, reds and oranges of the autumn colours are quite a sight and stand out in amazing contrast to that absolute barrenness of the surrounding land.

We came across a really interesting camp site in the nick of time just as the sun was about to disappear. The camp site was in the Reserva Nacional Las Chinchillas nature reserve run by Conaf who are the umbrella Nature Conservation Organisation in Chile. It was not a big reserve but it specialised in the protection of Chinchillas and related fauna. In the morning we did a little walk through the reserve and on our return were taken into a room which housed a variety of Chinchillas. The room had almost no light so it took some time before your eyes adjusted to the light in order to see the exhibition! Apparently, Chinchillas cannot handle daylight, and are completely nocturnal. It was really an interesting unplanned excursion.

Monday? Must be wash day

Do you bite?

Where shall we camp?

The area around Ovalle is obviously the flower growing capital of Chile. Ewa suggested that maybe I would like to stop off at the very large flower market in Ovalle to buy her some red roses? Although that was the very first thing that came into my mind as we entered the town, the practicality of carrying red roses as we double back onto the Pan American Highway, put pay to my initial desire and we headed off, without flowers, to the seaside town of Guanaqueros where we were once again the only campers at the campsite right on the beach.

She never made it!

As yet we have not had a swim in the sea, but now we were on a huge beach with white sand and decent waves, so there was really no excuse for not having a morning swim. That was the discussion that we had as we turned in for bed. When the morning broke the fog was rolling in. The sea looked grey and the sand damp! We didn’t swim although we both put on our costumes and went ankle deep into the sea. It confirmed our worst fears. It was frio! Anyway where would we put wet bathing costumes on the bike?

PAH to La Serena and a right turn along Route 41 saw us leave the mist and fog behind and took sr to this amazing place at the centre of the world’s geomagnetic energy. No sooner had we arrived when I felt my legs buckling and found myself going OM…………..

Just add water

Amazing mountain colours

Place of OM

Reserva Nacional Las Chinchillas